At Wesleyan's 2009 commencement, Anna Quindlen reminded graduates of Samuel Beckett's bold proclamation, "To find a form that accommodates the mess, that is the task of the artist now." Instead of tidying the mess, or assuring graduates that things were not as messy as they appeared in the chaos of that May, she simply said,

We leave you a mess. And I won’t apologize for that. Instead I want you to see it for what it is: an engraved invitation to transformation. Certainty is dead. Long live the flying leap.

A long-time fan of Anna Quindlen's, I especially loved that last declarative: long live the flying leap.

And so, here goes my flying leap. As I travel to Japan, back home to run my first math camp for middle-school girls, and then to France, I will be flying in more ways than one.

Thursday, June 24, 2010

Rush hour traffic

On our first day in Tokyo, we woke up at 6:45 in order to give ourselves enough time to meet our bus to Mount Fuji, which left from Hamamatsucho Station at 9 am. After a quick and lovely breakfast at our hostel (there was delicious coffee, with milk to add, as a concession to Western taste buds), we set out, retracing our steps from our arrival, back to Ueno Station. This time, though, we found ourselves actually plastered to each other, and to the walls of the train, once we got on. It was rush hour in Tokyo.

From Ueno Station, we took a Japan Rail line out to Hamamatsucho. Once there, we promptly walked in the wrong direction. This ended up being a stroke of luck, actually, since we had to eventually walk against the flow of pedestrian traffic, and so, got the amazing opportunity to people-watch at high volume. White shirts and dark suits were, almost exclusively, the style for men, while women rocked far more exciting styles. Fortunately, there is a well-ordered sense of where to walk in croweded times like this, and everyone respected the small lane on the right side of the long tunnel out of the station, where pedestrian traffic from the less-traveled direction was herded. (Not only that, but when waiting for the JR line, we joined a two-person-wide line that formed exactly where the doors eventually opened, and that immediately parted as the train stopped, allowing people to get out of the traincar.)

We found our bus 15 minutes before it left, giving us time to carefully examine all of the vending machines set up in the bus terminal. Once aboard, we met our guide for the day, Katsu, and headed out of Tokyo, up to Mount Fuji's fifth station, via the visitor center, where we got a beautiful look at the highest mountain in Japan. We proceeded, on the bus, to the Hakone region, where we first ate a Japanese-style lunch (including miso soup, sashimi, rice and various unidentifiable vegetables and other blocks of a variety of colors and consistency), then boarded a boat on Lake Ashi. We finished that part of the day with a funicular ride, and then boarded a bullet train (shinkansen), which brought us back to Tokyo.

We finished with a walk around Ginza, which reminded me of Rockefeller Center in New York, and stopped for another dinner of udon (this time at a Japanese equivalent of a greasy spoon diner) before calling our first day in Japan quits. Back at the ryokan, we fell asleep immediately, feeling extremely pleased with ourselves.

2 comments:

  1. Ann! I love your inclusion of food details! I ate a rubbery piece of sushi today for lunch and thought of how you must be effortlessly developing the ability to discriminate between "all you can eat" sushi in nyc (i.e. similar to what i slammed into my mouth) and the real deal. I miss you! Keep writing!!!

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  2. was there any yelling of BONZAI at mt. fuji (or anywhere?) :) i love picturing your red hair among all that rush hour traffic. I miss you too!

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